From Alfred Tesseron’s (owner of Pontet Canet in Pauillac) estate on Mount Veeder, the 2019 Pym Rae is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc. Deep purple-black colored, it requires a fair bit of swirling before it charges out of the gate with bold notes of crème de cassis, black cherry compote, and blueberry pie, followed by suggestions of clove oil, lilacs, licorice, and tar, plus a spicy waft of cumin seed. The full-bodied palate delivers beguiling energy from the brightness of fruit, bursting with fragrant floral notes, minerally sparks, and exotic spices. It has a taut backbone of invigorating acidity, matched by firm, ripe, grainy tannins, supporting the epic long, multi-layered finish. This 2019 is the vinous definition of opulence. This is the first vintage certified organic and biodynamic. Only about 20,000 bottles were made and are due to be released in autumn 2023.

The Pym-Rae wines I tasted with Alfred Tesseron and Estate Manager Jérôme Ledit (2016-2019) all possess some measure of intensity, elegance, excellent balance, and freshness. Encompassing all those qualities is this 2019 vintage, seamless and simply mind-boggling. Pure blackberry fruit, creme de cassis, and graphite are nuanced by garrigue and cocoa nibs laced with orange essence. Medium to full-bodied with youthful blue fruit, spiced plum, and violets that meld together, creating a profoundly symphonic and lyrical fruit melody that is impossible to resist. The vines are surrounded by a pristine wilderness and many native California shrubs; those qualities emerge in the wine as sagebrush, fragrant Bay Laurel, and layers of ironstone mineral and earth. A kind of soy-soaked cedarwood rounds out this meticulous wine. The Tesseron family, owners of Château Pontet-Canet, purchased the estate in 2016. It was owned by the late actor Robin Williams, who had planted the vines in the late 1990s. Jérôme Ledit is the Estate Manager and Michel Rolland is the consultant oenologist. The vineyards are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc and have been dry-farmed since the first day in 2016 that Alfred Tesseron set foot on the property. It is already unquestionably one of Napa Valley's greatest understated assets.

The 2019 Château Pym-Rae is a textbook Mount Veeder Cabernet with its exotic red, blue, and black fruits as well as complex notes of mountain scrub brush, lavender, tobacco, and lead pencil. Hitting the palate with full-bodied richness, it has a layered, elegant mouthfeel, ultra-fine yet substantial tannins, and a great finish. It's one of those "iron fist in a velvet glove" type wines that will benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and shine over the following two decades.

Extremely aromatic with flowers, currants, plums, and cocoa. Full-bodied with compacted fruit and ultra-fine tannins giving it a suppleness and finesse, yet it’s very structured and long. Turns to sandalwood, hazelnut and subtle currants. Round and velvety texture at the end. Slightly deeper and denser. 55% new French barrels and 45% concrete eggs for 18 months. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc and 5% merlot. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Needs four or five years. An excellent mountain wine from the family owners of Pontet Canet. Try after 2026.

(96+ points) The 2019 Pym-Rae is made up of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot, all aged in a combination of 45% new French oak barriques and small (260-gallon) concrete tanks. Impressively ripe and concentrated, it offers scents of cassis, violet and hints of dark chocolate on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is silky-smooth, framed by dusty tannins on the long, focused finish. Yes, it's somewhat Bordeaux-like in shape, but it's fully ripe, with black cherries emerging on the finish, along with the slightest touch of alcoholic warmth. - Joe Czerwinski

This is dense and still tightly wound, with hints of dried iris, sweet bay and tobacco leaf peeking out from a core of dark currant preserves and plum reduction. The long finish shows wet earth and cast iron accents that lend an old-school feel as the pure fruit pumps along in unison. A serious, mineral-laden mountain Cabernet. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Best from 2027 through 2042. - JM