Enjoyably fresh and fluid style, good acidity, with lip-smacking raspberry and strawberry fruit. Good feeling of lift and drinkability considering the extreme vintage conditions. Elegant, fine tannins. Fermented in concrete vats, then aged in concrete and old foudres.

The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Le Vieux Donjon is a beautifully balanced, classic expression of the appellation, as well as this estate. It has a vivid purple hue, with ripe berry fruits, peppery herbs, floral, and sandalwood-like aromatics. Medium to full-bodied, it’s seamless and elegant on the palate, with ultra-fine tannins and a great finish. This is a brilliant wine that’s already drinking well but will evolve gracefully over the next 15-20 years.

An excellent example of classic Châteauneuf richness that shows good balance and energy. Juicy black raspberry, licorice and ganache are wrapped around a ballast of graphite shavings, while the refined structure reins in the warm, mouthcoating palate. Hints of grilled herbs, brown bread and lavender smoke detail the long, textured and mineral-rich finish. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Best from 2026 through 2038. — K.B.

A well-crafted, balanced and refined red. This has notes of sweet cherries, dried herbs, red berries and mild spices. Medium- to full-bodied with fine yet firm tannins. Juicier at the center with a solid frame of tannins coating the palate at this stage. Bright fruit with plenty of vitality in the long, peppery finish. Try after 2026.

As is custom at this address, the 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape spent one year in old oak foudres. Neatly blending 75% Grenache with 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and 5% Cinsault, it unwinds with notes of violet, forest strawberry, licorice, black cherry and graphite. Open-knit and inviting, the 2022 is gently framed by ripe tannins that won’t need as much time to mellow as in 2020 or 2019. Finishing on a savory note, this expressive Châteauneuf smoothly integrates its 15.25% alcohol and comes highly recommended. -- Nicolas Greinacher