Aromas of red cherries, restrained black pepper, graphite and flowers. Full-bodied with tingling acidity and warming alcohol. Firm, chalky yet ripe tannins that are just a bit tight at the end, otherwise a good, toasty finish. Exuberant fruit yet balanced overall by the structure. Drink or hold.

The Quintarelli Giuseppe 2017 Valpolicella Classico Superiore (made with 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 15% Cabernet, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese) goes through a brief appassimento (that leans to the Ripasso method) and sees between five and six years in large oak cask. The wine's maturation has been slightly shortened over recent years, down from seven years in botte. This wine was bottled in February 2024, and we can expect the 2018 vintage to go into bottle in January or February 2025. The 2017 vintage is a little shy initially, but the wine does open to dark fruit and dried blackberry. There are two to three grams per liter of residual sugar that help to amplify the softness and texture of the mouthfeel. - Monica Larner