The term 'vecchie viti' is not officially recognised by the law but is displayed on some labels to indicate the use of old vines - here in Pajé, the average age of the vines is 80 to 90 years old. This Barbaresco shows impressive fruit concentration. The nose is savoury, with rhubarb, liquorice and cinnamon, accompanied by subtle blood orange and wild strawberry. Parma violet, cinnamon and some bloody notes introduce extremely fresh red currants. Velvety and ripe, the tannins are as much extracted as they are soaked with blood orange flavour, integrated with lifted acidity and leading to a vibrant briny finish.

A rich, heady wine, the 2010 Barbaresco Pajé Vecchie Viti is arguably the most complex and nuanced of Luca Roagna's 2010 Barbarescos, as the balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is magnificent. Deep, pliant and beautifully structured in the glass, the 2010 impresses with its superb harmony. Sweet red stone fruits, chalk, iron, mint and wild flowers are laced into the incisive, tannic finish. This super-classic, old-vine Nebbiolo is the epitome of the 'iron fist in a velvet glove' that is often invoked to describe Barolo and Barbaresco. Patience is key. (Drink between 2018-2030)- Antonio Galloni