Restrained if very pretty aromas include those of discreet yeast, quinine, citrus peel and green apple. The palate impression is like that of the nose, which is to say restrained if elegant and refined with excellent punch and cut as the mousse is firm but not aggressive while the linear finish is bone-dry without being aggressively lean or sharp. I quite liked this and while it could use better depth, a few years of cellaring should add the necessary additional complexity.

This is a bone-dry, crisp Champagne with notes of grapefruit, fresh peaches, almonds, sliced apples and salted lemons. Some fresh walnuts. Bright and medium-bodied with energetic bubbles and a focused finish. 67% pinot noir, 31% chardonnay and 2% meunier. 2019 base with 34% reserve wines. Disgorged January 2023. 0g/L dosage. Drink now.

Royale Reserve Non-Dosé NV is a zero-dosage rendition of the Philipponnat Brut NV that is a 67% Pinot Noir, 31% Chardonnay and 2% Pinot Meunier blend disgorged in February 2023. Wonderfully fresh and bright from the start, it fills the glass with crisp yellow apple, lemon sorbet, wet stone and chalk aromas that have a delicate creaminess. Light to medium-bodied, the palate is all precision with racy acid wound tightly around a lemony, orchard fruit core and a mineral-edged finish. A delicious wine that will sing in tune with a meal. - Sarah Mayo

The Non Dosé in the name means the Champagne is completely dry. However the ripeness of the fruit in the blend is such that the wine's texture is generous and warm. That makes for a wine that is poised between a steely edge and ripe white fruits. Drink this bottling from 2023. Roger Voss

Fresh and minerally, with a luxurious mousse that wraps around a firm spine of acidity, carrying a finely meshed range of ripe black plum and poached peach, grapefruit pith, white blossom and chalk notes. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier. Disgorged February 2023. Drink now through 2028. - AN

The same base wine as the Brut from 2019, with 67% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and the rest Meunier, (34% reserve wine), the NV Champagne Royal Reserve Non Dose sees an additional month before disgorgement and does not see any dosage. Similarly, it’s fresh and approachable on opening, with aromas of chalky earth, fresh pear, and a light smoky incense note. Medium-bodied and focused, it’s zesty with a lively and fine mousse, and savory with saltiness through a focused and chalky textured finish. Drink 2023-2030. Disgorged February 2023. - Audrey Frick

Based on the 2019 vintage and disgorged in March 2023 with no dosage, the NV Royale Réserve Non Dosé reveals a fresh, lively bouquet with aromas of pear, lemon oil, spring flowers and orchard fruit. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and vinous, it’s delicate and elegant with a mouthwatering, penetrating finish. This is a blend of 65% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier. - Yohan Castaing

The NV Royale Réserve Non Dosé is terrific. Bit offers a fine interplay of citrus and floral notes, but with a bit more poise and better balance than the straight Réserve. I especially admire its energy and persistence. This is a tasty non-dosé Champagne that hits all the right notes in style. Disgorged: January 2024. -- Antonio Galloni