With the most recent addition from the 2017 vintage (a vintage of generally fine quality in the Côte des Blancs, at least), this is a top notch release of this under-the-radar gem. Full of the density and complexity of sourdough toast and dried citrus, melding seamlessly into clementine, and fresh nut through a beautifully settled mousse and fine, tapering length. It's a blanc de blancs capturing a formidable sense of both energy and depth. (Drink between 2024-2034)

The NV Champagne Grand Cru Blanc De Blancs Reserve Oubliée Brut is based around the 2016 vintage in this release. A bright straw/silver color, it opens to a floral and fruity bouquet of white peach, jasmine, lime candies, chalky earth, and frangipane. This cuvée is predominantly raised in stainless steel, but the reserve wine is brought up in a combination of stainless steel, concrete tanks, and Stockinger barrels, adding a bit more depth that’s felt in the resulting wine. Medium to full-bodied, it takes on the concentration and texture of silky citrus oils, a refined mousse, and a rounded and elegant feel through the finish. It’s hard to resist now but it will reward those who wait. Drink 2026-2040.

Disgorged in March 2024 with four grams per liter dosage, based on the 2018 vintage (50%) and complemented by a perpetual reserve component that dates back to 1988, the NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Réserve Oubliée goes through partial malolactic fermentation (as the rest of Péters wines) and is matured for about 18 months in a variety of vessels: large wooden casks, stainless steel tanks and concrete (roughly one-third each) before aging under cork in the bottle. Péters observes, and the wine confirms, that long aging on the lees contributes to an aromatic range of complexity that evokes associations of maturation in barrels. Opening in the glass to reveal notes of baked bread, toasted nuts, vanilla pod and dried fruit, it is harmonious and enveloping, laden with vibrant acidity and marked by lip-puckering salinity. It’s a perfect blanc de blancs for enjoying now, while laying down Les Chétillons in the cellar.

The NV Brut Réserve Oubliée (2019 base) is a blend of lots aged in stainless steel and cement that spends an extra year on its lees and is then aged on cork. In this release, the Réserve Oubliée is delicate and lifted. Citrus, mineral and floral notes are sketched with a fine touch. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2024. -Antonio Galloni