This Blanc de Blancs champagne is anything but flashy and it might take a moment switch onto its wavelength. However, it has excellent depth and finely etched contours on the medium-bodied palate, the Amalfi-lemon character building as it aerates in the glass. Beautiful balance at the very long, rather rich but very dry finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Coming more from the south of Vertus, where they used to have Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the NV Champagne Latitude is based on the 2020 vintage with 40% reserve wine, from the perpetual reserve that was started in 2004. It pours a pale silver straw hue and opens to aromas of lemon curd, honeysuckle, a touch of fresh brioche, and ripe fresh pear. Medium to full-bodied, it has a rounded, fluffy mousse and an inviting mouthfeel, with long, ripe fruit on the palate. It is custardy in texture and very attractive already. Drink 2023-2037. 3 grams per liter of dosage. - Audrey Frick

The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is bright and beautifully focused. The Latitude contains 40% perpetual reserve wine dating back to 2004. It is usually a bit more approachable on release, but this year's version clearly needs time to soften. Today, citrus, floral and mineral notes abound on the steely finish. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: February, 2023. -- Antonio Galloni

A tangy overtone of pink grapefruit peel rides the fine mousse in this creamy Champagne. It's layered with a subtle mesh of apricot, lemon thyme and minerally brine and chalk notes. Well-cut and harmonious. Drink now through 2025. – AN

Based on the 2020 vintage and disgorged this year with three grams per liter dosage, the latest NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude delivers aromas of crisp stone fruits, citrus oil, fresh herbs and warm bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy palate that's rich and generous in profile. As readers will remember, this cuvée takes its name from its provenance from parcels that share the same latitude: that's to say, the south of Vertus, which routinely delivers a sunnier, rounder style. - William Kelley