I like the sour cherries and raspberries combined with sliced almonds and pastries. Honey and rose hips too. Medium body with soft, fine bubbles. Excellent freshness with wild berry fruit throughout. Relatively dry. Drink now.

The latest rendition of Jeaunaux-Robin's NV Brut Rosé Le Dessous de la Cabane is performing very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with notes of smoky blood orange, pomegranate and dried flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with an ample but crisp core of fruit, ripe but tangy acids and terrific concentration, with a long, sapid and mouthwateringly direct finish. Composed of 75% Pinot Meunier (of which some 15% was still red wine), 20% Pinot Noir and 5% Chardonnay, it's among the most compelling of these recent releases from this under-the-radar grower. - William Kelley