Tradition is not vintage-dated, but the wine is a blend of one-third perpetual cuvee and 73% Chardonnay and 27% Pinot Noir harvested in 2019, sourced from Rorick Heritage Vineyard in the Sierra Foothills AVA, Alder Springs in Mendocino, Keefer Ranch and Heintz in the Russian River Valley, and the Linda Vista Vineyard in Napa’s Oak Knoll area. Pressed in a traditional Champagne cycle, native and malolactic fermentation is in barrel and wooden tanks. No sulfur was added during élevage. Racked once, tirage bottled without fining or filtering. After 18 months, the wine is riddled and disgorged à la volée with zero dosage and no sulfur. Deep lemon-gold, with very fine beads. A wealth of toasted nuts aromas and fresh-cut hay. Wild and savage on the palate with a creamy brininess and a cacophony of layers redolent of bruised red berries, bacon fat, dried herbs, and crushed almonds. It’s mystifying for its elegance and outlying, perplexing savoury qualities.

The 2019 Tradition Sparkling Wine is tangy and wild on the nose, with notes of burnt lemon peel and freshly baked bread. The light-bodied palate has an alluringly creamy texture (the base wines underwent full malolactic conversion). It offers a balance of tangy acidity and a long, electric finish. - EB

The NV (2020) Tradition is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. Aromatic and light on its feet, the 2020 is intriguing. As always, there is a bit of stem influence from the whole clusters in the Pinot component. Today, that green quality is a bit prominent. Then again, this was recently disgorged and was bottled with no dosage. Perhaps time will help. Vineyard sources are Alder Springs, Keefer, Linda Vista and Charles Heintz. -- Antonio Galloni