The 2019 Tradition Sparkling Rosé has a medium cherry-pink color and a savory aromatic profile, with notes of matchstick, potpourri and pie crust. The light-bodied palate is dry, with just two grams per liter residual sugar. It has a creamy yet energetic feel, a balance of berry and savory character, focused acidity and a satisfying finish that gains in intensity. - EB

The rosé version of winemaker Michael Cruse’s Tradition bottling, with base wine from 2019. A blend of 68% Pinot Noir and 7% red wine makes it an assemblage rosé, with the remainder of the blend Chardonnay. Pre-blended in early spring after harvest and tirage bottles. After two years on the lees, they are riddled and disgorged with around 2g/L and aged another five months before release. The Pinot Noir is from Rorick Heritage Vineyard in the Sierra Foothills AVA and Alder Springs in Mendocino, as well as some fruit from Linda Vista Vineyard in Napa’s Oak Knoll area. A rosé with plenty of body and richness from the dosage, with savoury cherry pit and ripe cherry fruit aromas. The mousse is voluminous and creamy, with plenty of grip and bite. That richness is cut by bracing acid tension. After you’ve drained one glass, take a whiff and soak up the briny, nutty qualities that remain before pouring and pondering another glass.

The NV (2019) Tradition Rosé, a blend from Alder Springs, Linda Vista and Rorick, is a pretty, gracious and ethereal sparkling wine. Crushed red berry fruit, mint, white pepper and crushed rocks are all nicely delineated. The 2019 is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, with 10% still red wine as part of the Pinot component. The still red wine is vinified with whole clusters, which adds a distinctive savory quality that is not often found in sparkling wines. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. -- Antonio Galloni