(91-93 points) Vinified with 50% whole clusters, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape A la Gloire de Mon Grand-Père enters the stage with alluring notes of strawberry compote, rosewater and melted licorice. A trace of orange blossom adds another layer. Full-bodied, powerful and concentrated, a nip of heat on the long finish indicates that the alcohol needs to be integrated better. I’m cautiously optimistic that further élevage can solve this.

From the more clay soils just south of Beaucastel in the Gardiole lieu-dit, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape à la Gloire de Mon Grand-Pere is 100% Grenache that was 50% destemmed and brought up in foudre with a small amount in demi-muids. A slightly deeper, richer wine, it offers red and black fruits, pepper, garrigue, and a touch of minerality. It's a classic, layered Châteauneuf with medium body, a focused, layered mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish that brings ample Provençal style with beautiful finesse and elegance. Drink 2025-2040.

Composed almost entirely of Grenache Noir, with just 1% each of Cinsault and Clairette, the 2023 Châteauneuf du Pape A la Gloire de Mon Grand-Père offers up a muted yet intriguing bouquet of licorice, mocha and smoke. Medium- to full-bodied, concentrated and firmly structured, it reveals a dense, muscular core of fruit framed by chewy tannins. Matured for 12 months in foudres and large barrels, it hails from parcels planted on brown soils—perhaps accounting for its powerful, compact mid-palate, which contrasts with a long, gently ethereal finish. Readers would be well advised to wait 1–2 years before opening a bottle. - Yohan Castaing

Slightly outranked by the gorgeous 2022 and 2019 renditions, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape A la Gloire de Mon Grand-Père entices nonetheless. Ripe forest strawberry, garrigue, white pepper and black cherry aromas are all dialed up. Touching the full-bodied palate with sweet black fruit and ample finesse, the concentrated 2023 checks out with ambition on the savory culmination. -- Nicolas Greinacher