Dense licorice and forest berry aromas mask the deep tannin structure of this Chateauneuf-du-Pape masterpiece. Full-bodied but with a lightness of touch. Then the power and stony intensity pour over you in a giant wave. The freshness is extraordinary for this hot and dry vintage. Serious tannins in the very long, compact and refined finish. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2027. Stuart Pigott Senior Editor

A tasting of the constituent parts this year, so this is a provisional score. The Terret Noir, Muscardin and Vaccarèse were fermented together; they provide the more fragrant top notes, bright and attractive if not deep. The Cinsault was perfumed and fresh, with fine tannins. The Counoise was more savoury, with more depth and tannin; tense and saline, and spicy thanks to 50% whole-bunch fermentation. The Grenache was soft and supple, fairly dark in colour, quite structured, with impressive freshness, tannins and acidity. The Syrah was deep, intense, black-fruited and peppery – quite potent in alcohol, with intense tannins. The Mourvèdre will be 30% of the blend, contributing mouthcoating, deep and succulent tannins, plenty of flesh and quite high alcohol. The overall impression is a deliciously rich and ripe Beaucastel, not as structured as the 2022, that is likely to score around 95-96 once blended and bottled.

The estate lost some Grenache due to shatter, so the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape is based on 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, 10% Counoise, 10% Syrah, and the rest a mix of permitted varieties. It was all destemmed except for the Syrah and brought up in foudre. The higher Mourvèdre component gives it a more serious, focused style than most in the vintage, and it has darker blackberry fruits intermixed with roasted herbs, spring flowers, violets, and some meaty nuances on the nose. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, with a deep, pure, layered mouthfeel, it has ripe, velvety, yet building tannins and a great finish. Another beautiful vintage for this cuvée, it has the approachable style of the vintage yet brings more than enough density and concentration to evolve for 30 years. Drink 2025-2054.

(94+ points) As usual, the 2023 Chateauneuf du Pape from Château de Beaucastel was matured in foudres. Wafting from the glass with aromas of pepper, garrigue, dark berries and flowers, it’s medium- to full-bodied, round and sappy, with a layered core of fruit and a dense, precise mid-palate framed by velvety tannins, concluding with a firmer, gently spicy finish.- YC

The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape shows well, unwinding with intense blackberry, black cherry and licorice aromatics. Silky and elegant, it hits the full-bodied palate with energy and drive, coming to a close with freshness and focus on the rounded finish. This classy red Châteauneuf can be approached as of 2026. - By Nicolas Greinacher, October 2025