Although Alvina Pernot's Corton-Charlemagne is utterly different from the wines in her cellar from further south, the wine is compellingly lovely, boasting lush, dense aromas of apricot, quince and nectarine. The texture is rich, almost fat, but makes up in power what it gives up in nervous Puligny energy. The grapes are from an exchange with friends in Pernand, and the ferment is done in used casks to maximise the purity of fruit. This lovely wine is among the jewels of the hill of Corton.

The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from the Pernot family, from vines situated on the Pernand side. This is very aromatic and complex on the nose, with white flowers infusing yellow fruit, hints of brioche and grilled almond. The palate is very well balanced with wonderful poise, a citric thread of acidity and attractive salinity. This is one of the best Corton-Charlemagne wines that I tasted during my weeks in Burgundy. It is far superior to the 2022. -- Neal Martin

Clear fresh colour with an appealing nose, stones in the right place, a little bit too much oak behind in its extreme youth, will resolve. The picking date works well. Four barrels madre, all from the Pernand side. Excellent persistence.