This vintage of Telmo Rodríguez flagship single-vineyard Rioja stands out for its incredible purity of fruit and remarkably well-built structure, anchored by gossamer tannins, vivid yet soft acidity and poised minerality. A true accomplishment, especially in a challenging vintage in which drought accelerated the growing cycle. Very complete, balanced and fluid, with a mellifluous core of cherry, sloe and mulberry lined with graphite, tobacco leaves and Oolong. Fine rim of pink pepper, Himalayan salt and nutmeg. A mischievous touch of chalk adds liveliness and texture. This will age beautifully - but it's hard to resist the temptation of a closed bottle. An irresistible, alluring classic.

This wine is now firmly on the global radar, and continues to be one of the highlights of my tasting calendar. Restrained, understated, mouthwatering, precise, vivid raspberry and redcurrant fruits, anis, black tea, lavender, poised, drawn out and just an utterly brilliant wine that is worth talking about. Telmo Rodriguez is winemaker of this 3.8ha plot set within his family Remelluri estate in the foothills of the Sierra de Toloño, Rioja Alavesa.

The 2022 Yjar comes from a warm and dry year and was made with grapes from old vines planted with a massal selection of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and others. It fermented in small open-top oak vats with indigenous yeasts and matured in foudres and barrels of different sizes for 30 months. It's surprisingly fine and elegant, not showing any heat or ripeness, coming through as very harmonious and fresh. It's fine-boned and balanced, with 14% alcohol, a pH of 3.72 and 5.08 grams of acidity, and it has very fine, elegant tannins. It keeps its quality in a super difficult vintage like 2022. 7,880 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2024.- Luis Gutiérrez

The 2022 Yjar was aged roughly 30 months in foudres and barrels of varying sizes. Comprising Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and other varieties from an old bush-trained vineyard in Labastida, it offers a complex, nuanced nose of cherry, dried flowers, balsamic tones, delicate oak and subtle blackberry. On the palate, it achieves a rare equilibrium between intensity and finesse, finishing long with incense and violet. Despite the warmth of the vintage, the tannins remain fine, supported by élevage yet never dominated by it. Its chalky mouthfeel speaks clearly of the site. A Spanish grand vin that comfortably converses with top Bordeaux while remaining deeply Riojan in spirit. - Joaquín Hidalgo