The 2022 evokes the wild woodlands of the Chianti hills as well the hard, stony soils that give I Sodi its name – all in one sophisticated package. Top-notes of leather and mocha meld with orange zest and Mediterranean forest flora. Cherry compote and fresh blackberry emerge as it sits in the glass. This is impeccably coiffed but still almost painfully young. The black brambly currant, candied violet and crushed stone core is tightly wrapped in endless layers of fine, grainy tannins. That firm grasp eventually cedes, allowing a succulent undertow to kickstart the saliva glands. Luscious acidity buoys the whole, and incense wafts headily throughout.

The 2022 I Sodi di San Niccolò is fabulous. Presented here in its 45th vintage, the 2022 has so much to offer. A blast of dark red and black fruit, gravel, mocha, dried herbs and licorice makes a strong first impression. The typically firm Sodi tannins and brisk acids are present, but they also feel somewhat tempered by the richness of the fruit. That makes for an especially approachable young Sodi, not a bad thing at all for a wine that usually demands years of cellaring. Even with its bold, rich fruit, the 2022 retains Sodi's classic mid-weight structure. Superb. - Antonio Galloni

A complex wine with vibrant aromas of restrained red cherries, rosebuds, cedar and chalky minerality. Juicy and medium-bodied, it shows ripeness and firm, velvety tannins, with crisp acidity balancing the austere, warming finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.

Cherry, blackberry, orange peel, floral, iron and tar flavors prevail in this taut, firmly structured red. A hint of oak spice adds detail as the tannins emerge on the compact finish. Nonetheless, this is long and needs time for all of the elements to integrate. Sangioveto and Malvasia Nera. Best from 2028 through 2048. 5,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.