This is one of those wines where your nose is in the glass for ages, enjoying the complex array of aromas that range from raspberries to dates, perfumed bark to polished wood, pressed flowers to fresh mushrooms. Full-bodied, dense and focused with fine, well-integrated tannins, plenty of fruit flavor and an endless finish. A joy to drink even now, but this will age gracefully for many a year.

The 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato blossoms in the glass with a decadent bouquet that blends crushed violet candies, spiced blood orange and dried blueberries. This is silky smooth, nearly creamy in feel, with a dense wave of ripe red berry fruits contrasted by a bitter tinge of dark, dark chocolate. Despite its size (17% alcohol), a core of zesty acidity maintains amazing energy and freshness as the 2017 finishes dramatically long and intense, leaving a staining of tart wild berry fruit to linger. -- Eric Guido

A harmonious version, with the deft integration of supple tannins and lively acidity lending a sense of elegance and accessibility. Features generous, expressive flavors of mulled cherry and black plum reduction, dried flowers and eucalyptus, milled pepper and iron that linger on the chewy finish. Corvina, Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina. Drink now through 2028. – AN