Pungent nose of violets, amarena cherries, dried figs and lightly charred oak. Some toffee notes emerge with air, together with more pressed flowers. Not so much full-bodied as full-flavored, with silky, fine and polished tannins. Very young and driven at the moment. Lacks the depth and complexity of more fortunate vintages, but still shows exceptional quality. Try from 2024.

Taking in the 2017 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta reminds me of all of the desserts, spices and confections experienced on Christmas day. An array of medicinal cherries, plum sauce, ginger cookies, cloves, cinnamon and dried roses captivate. There's tremendous depth here, but it maintains fantastic freshness. This is wildly spicy and intense, yet deep, with brilliant acidity adding energy seldom found in Valpolicella, which enlivens the crunchy red fruits and pretty inner florals within. The 2017 finishes dramatically long and perfumed, resonating on sour blackberries, currants and a bitter hint of cocoa. This goes far beyond the expectation of Valpolicella, with the power and aromatics of an Amarone but with a liveliness that will allow it to excel at the dinner table. (Drink between 2024-2034)

A compact, focused red, this presents pretty violet, medicinal herb and anise notes on the nose as it slowly expands -- flavors that are more subdued at first on the palate. This is supported by dense, plushly textured tannins, flavors of mulled cherry, dark chocolate and amaro, loamy earth and smoke that are slowly revealed, gaining momentum and lingering on the long finish. Give this some air or time in the glass to allow it to shine brightest. Corvina, Rondinella, Croatina and Oseleta. Best from 2024 through 2032. — A.N.

Amazing aromatics, balsamic, caramelised red fruits, sweet almost marzipan/frangipane with lovely peonie floral elements alongside smoke and coffee. Pure and clean but given depth by a leathery savouriness and slightly grippy, powdery tannins. Bright acidity, the sharpness and florality is lovely, but the tannins do take over some of the upfront enjoyment at this stage and constrict the finish a little. White pepper, strawberries, cherries and blueberries with bitter orange peel, dried raisins, tobacco and wood spice. Lots of flavour nuance and lovely detail but just missing some glue to hold it all together. 5% Croatina completes the blend. Owner and winemaker team Romano and Marco Dal Forno. One of three wines by Dal Forno launching on the Place for the first time this year.