Two years ago (before COVID-19), I tasted this wine in a preview capacity at the Giacomo Conterno winery in Monforte d'Alba. The 2016 Gattinara is linear and sharp, offering a very silky and smooth approach at this still-young moment in its lifespan. The quality of fruit is brilliant and primary, but the wine has softened and fleshed out nicely, showing hints of its ongoing evolution to the palate with softly integrated tannins. This is an accessible Gattinara that drinks beautifully now, but it also holds the promise of more bottle age should you decide to wait.-Monica Larner