94+ An exuberant and youthful Blanc de Blanc, the L’Extra Brut NV opens with enticing aromas of lemon confit, hints of chalk and white flowers. A vibrant, racy line of acid lights up ripe citrus flavors on the light to medium-bodied palate before finishing long with refreshing minerality. The blend is from three Villers-Marmery 1er Cru parcels; Les Allouettes, Grands Arbres and Chemin de Verzey. 40% of the blend completes malo-lactic, 33% is fermented in oak barrels, with an Extra Brut 3.5 grams per liter dosage. The bottle tasted was disgorged January 2023. Lot: L200123 D19

Gently creamy, satin-textured and complex, with grilled apricot, quince and pear flavours propped up by ratafia biscuit and white butter richness. Despite the age, it is hardly a developed or open-styled wine, but rather focused, with a snappy citrus flesh finish. Full of interest and character. 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir from Villers-Marmery in the Perle Blanche. Made from a perpetual reserve in stainless steel, which was started in 2002.

A fantastic and detailed offering from A. Margaine, the NV Champagne Cuvée Le Caractère M comes from a perpetual reserve which began in 2002, with this edition having the youngest wine from 2016, Primarily Chardonnay with 5% Pinot Noir, it pours a bright straw color and is harmonious in its notes of preserved lemon, shortbread, ripe pear, and fresh floral perfume. With a supple texture, this medium to full-bodied Champagne displays a refined mousse that works in tandem with its silky mouthfeel, and it offer a pleasing hint of nuttiness on the finish. It’s ready for drinking now but will offer a wide drinking window over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033.

Disgorged in May 2019 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, the NV Extra-Brut Cuvée M Le Caractère is based on the 2013 vintage and drawn from a solera started in 2002. Offering up delicate aromas of white flowers, walnuts, crisp green apple, fenugreek and nougat, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and incisive, with a delicate mousse and a sapid finish. - WK

The NV Le Caractère M de Margaine is a perpetual blend of mainly Chardonnay from vintages 2015 to 2002. That combination of years yields a Champagne with a bit more generosity and softer contours than most other wines in the range. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers, chamomile, pear, tangerine and light tropical notes all open in this compelling Champagne. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: May, 2022. - Antonio Galloni