94+ An exuberant and youthful Blanc de Blanc, the L’Extra Brut NV opens with enticing aromas of lemon confit, hints of chalk and white flowers. A vibrant, racy line of acid lights up ripe citrus flavors on the light to medium-bodied palate before finishing long with refreshing minerality. The blend is from three Villers-Marmery 1er Cru parcels; Les Allouettes, Grands Arbres and Chemin de Verzey. 40% of the blend completes malo-lactic, 33% is fermented in oak barrels, with an Extra Brut 3.5 grams per liter dosage. The bottle tasted was disgorged January 2023. Lot: L200123 D19

Gently creamy, satin-textured and complex, with grilled apricot, quince and pear flavours propped up by ratafia biscuit and white butter richness. Despite the age, it is hardly a developed or open-styled wine, but rather focused, with a snappy citrus flesh finish. Full of interest and character. 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir from Villers-Marmery in the Perle Blanche. Made from a perpetual reserve in stainless steel, which was started in 2002.

93+ The NV Champagne Cuvée Le Caractère M is predominantly from the perpetual reserve coming from 2002-2017, with the addition of 25% 2018, and was raised in stainless steel with 5 years on the lees. The nose takes on a more layered but still very fresh style, with notes of fresh pastry dough, sweet citrus, poached apple, and fresh linen. It’s very elegant all the way through, with a delicately pillowing and refined mousse, a rounded feel in a medium bodied frame, and a clean, floating finish. A lovely wine, it’s drinking fantastically now but will age well for the next 7-8 years.

Disgorged in May 2019 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, the NV Extra-Brut Cuvée M Le Caractère is based on the 2013 vintage and drawn from a solera started in 2002. Offering up delicate aromas of white flowers, walnuts, crisp green apple, fenugreek and nougat, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and incisive, with a delicate mousse and a sapid finish. - WK

The NV Le Caractère M de Margaine is Margaine's solera-style blend, based on 2022 with reserve wines back to 2018. It remains a pretty brisk, taut Champagne. Lemon peel, spice, dried flowers, marzipan and chamomile inflections lend shades of nuance throughout. This airy, nuanced Champagne has so much to offer. Dosage is 4-5 grams per liter.