The base wine on this beauty is the superb 2002 vintage, and the wine is absolutely brilliant. The deep, pure and utterly classic nose soars from the glass in a smoky blaze of white peach, gentle tangerine, warm biscuits, chalky minerality, discreet white flowers and the aforementioned smokiness in abundance. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and still strikingly young, with a great core, elegant mousse, and outstanding cut and grip on the very, very long, mineral bath of a finish. There is a vibrancy to the expression of terroir here that is otherworldly! This wine is certainly approachable today (I sincerely doubt I spit it on this morning), but it is still relatively primary in profile and five or six more years in the cellar are really going to work their magic on this utterly profound young wine. (Drink between 2020-2060)

The NV (2018) Extra-Brut Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Sous Le Mont is one of the best editions of this wine I have tasted in some time. Rose petal, white pepper, orange peel and and a touch of dried Alpine herbs bring out the aromatic side of Pinot. The Sous Le Mont is often marked by a slightly bitter note. Here, all the elements are so well balanced. This is pure sophistication. Disgorged: February 27, 2025. -- Antonio Galloni

A Blanc de Noirs from an east-facing site in the heart of Aÿ, this has depth, richness and a deeper savory edge to the nose. Aromas of dark tobacco, plenty of dry roasted spices, nut biscuits, musk and dried red fruits. The palate is full of compressed power, where the Mesnil lieu-dit has a verticality which pushes on a horizontal plane with boldness, density and real substance. Flavors run through striking blueberry and red apples, heading to salted caramel and praline on the finish. Commanding Champagne. Drink now.

Offering up aromas of mint, apricot, smoked peach, white flowers and honeycomb, the NV Extra-Brut Grand Cru Sous le Mont, based on the 2016 vintage, is one of the most exotic wines in the range. Full-bodied, fleshy and ample, it's charming and gourmand, with a generous core of fruit and a long, saline finish. - William Kelley