As always, one of the strongest performers in Selosse’s range is the NV Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Les Carelles, this time based on the 2018 vintage (built on a perpetual blend initiated in 2003 and incorporating about 60% of the base vintage) and disgorged in January 2025 without dosage. Unfurling from the glass with a deep bouquet of lemon confit, dried apricot, orange oil and carrot seed oil, it mingles with cedar nut and resin. Full-bodied and elegantly muscular, with a vibrant core, it is supported by ample structuring extract that sustains the texture and plenitude of grapes harvested at full maturity and is underpinned by racy acidity, concluding with a searingly chalky finish. As last year, it is the most incisive of the lieu-dit Blanc de Blancs and one of the high points of the portfolio. Readers will by now know that it derives from two plots (pressed together) within the same lieu-dit: the smaller, south-facing parcel of virus-affected vines yielding small, concentrated grapes and the larger parcel that faces east and lends a sense of freshness.

This is really exotic with honeysuckle, jasmine, lychees, spiced lemons and grapefruit as well as green tobacco, quince and pie crust. Medium-bodied with a driven palate of dried fruit such as apples, pears and star fruit as well as nutmeg and cloves. Focused and intense flavors but always reserved. A blend from six villages: Cramant, Mareuil-sur-Ay, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Ambonnay, Avize and Ay. Drink now.

The NV (2018) Extra-Brut Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Les Carelles is superb. It strikes me as the most complete of the Chardonnay lieux-dits this year. Tangerine oil, dried flowers, chamomile and lightly honeyed overtones all meld together. Like all the 2018s, the Carelles in on the lighter, more gracious side, and yet its complexity and pedigree are both evident. What a gorgeous Champagne. I can't wait to taste it again with more time post-disgorgement. Disgorged: January 24, 2025. -- Antonio Galloni