The S.L.V. is a 34-acre estate planted primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in 1970, famed for producing the triumphant 1973 Cabernet at the Paris Tasting. Its volcanic and alluvial soils offer excellent drainage, translating into wines of grip and structure, and the 2023 vintage is downright masterful. This is the classic iron fist in a velvet glove: the aromatics are subtle and restrained, belying the power and structure that unfold on the palate. Black-fruited and deeply layered, with sagebrush and ironstone notes, the wine builds with robust blackberry fruit and ultra-fine cocoa-powder tannins that provide a perfect foundation for the mineral-laced fruit. Polished, suave, and gorgeous in its youth, this is a wine that will age gracefully, developing beautifully nuanced complexity for deCades to come. Fermented entirely in stainless steel and aged for 21 months in 100% new French oak.

A classic wine from a great vineyard. So fragrant in pine needles, spearmint and blackcurrant aromas, then layers of violet, cocoa, cedar and bay laurel flavors wrapped in snug tannins. Fresh, firm and well-balanced, with many years of enjoyment ahead. Drinkable now and best from 2033. Jim Gordon Executive Editor

Richer and fuller than the Fay Vineyard bottling, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. is loaded with generous notes of mixed red and black cherries. It's not quite full-bodied, but it's expansive on the palate—and somehow it does that without seeming heavy or overwrought. The luscious finish unspools in long, savory waves of mocha, earth and black olives. It's impressive stuff. - JC

The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. is a deep, powerful wine. Black cherry, plum, espresso, menthol and dried herbs infuse the 2022 with tons of aromatic complexity. Beams of tannin confer gravitas to this brooding, imposing young Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2023 offers an intriguing mix of the power that is typical of this site tempered by the restraint of this cold, late-ripening year. -AG

There's a touch of plushness here, but this is otherwise in an understated style, with very refined structure that carries black currant and blackberry preserve notes along with ease. As it stretches out, singed vanilla, walnut husk and dark tobacco notes emerge, with flashes of mesquite and dried violet echoing amid the fruit. Has power in reserve as it stays very poised. Best from 2028 through 2043.