The greatest wines all have something that sounds contradictory when you describe it plainly. This is an incredibly graceful dry Mosel riesling with super-refined peachy fruit that feels almost weightless in spite of the enormous concentration on the medium-bodied palate. It glides over you, then splash lands in an incredible cascade of wet stone minerality. So beautiful now, but it also has a great future ahead of it. Drink or hold.

The 2023 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr GG comes from elevated parcels that completely avoid botrytis. Ripe lemon, earth and crushed chervil create a gentle nose. The palate is smooth and almost soothing with lemony yeast, brightness and a luminous gentleness. A distant but aromatic aspect of green orange peel highlights the long finish. -- Anne Krebiehl MW