What an incredible interplay of golden fruit aromas and fantastic spicy complexity this enormously concentrated and creamy Mosel riesling has. Not analytically dry, but with spot-on balance, and everything is perfectly integrated on the medium-bodied palate. An extremely long, caressing finish makes you forget all your troubles. Ur alt means very old in German, and this wine comes from this producer’s oldest vines, planted pre-1910. Drink or hold.

The 2023 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese feinherb "Ur" Alte Reben comes from vines planted between 1908 and 1910, producing tiny, loose grapes. Subtle savor unites slate, herb and citrus in the gentlest fashion. The palate is juicy, fresh, lithe, smooth and aromatic with a lovely intensity of aroma, unobtrusive yet insistent, supported by a mouthfeel like a nano-particled phenolic veil. Its 12 g/L of sweetness comes across as dry due to proper acidity. Supremely elegant. -- Anne Krebiehl MWI