Anybody who doesn’t know what the noblest form of botrytis smells like is in for an extraordinary initiation. What a mind-boggling array of tropical fruit aromas (think mango, papaya, mangosteen) this gigantically concentrated riesling has. And then the supernova acidity kicks in and blows you clear off your chair. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2023 Schloss Johannisberg Purpurlack Riesling Beerenauslese is deep, precise and very concentrated on the savory and lemony nose that is reminiscent of crushed stones and candied lemon and pink grapefruit peel. Lush and highly refined and elegant on the palate, this is a light and filigreed yet also intense and stimulating bitter as well as saline BA that is much more savory and saline than sweet or rich. This is a great precision work that can probably age for 200 years or more. (I once had an 1811 Riesling that was still alive yet not on this level.) This is gorgeous in all its finesse and lightness! The grapes were picked on a Sunday October 1, after the harvest team was already sent home. 6.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024. - Stephan Reinhardt

The 2023 Riesling Schloss Johannisberg Purpurlack Beerenauslese was made from fully botrytized grapes. It smells of purest peach jelly, trailing lemon and passion fruit with a lovely edge of saffron. Peachiness takes over the palate, but again with that alluring, zesty tropical fruit edge. There’s freshness, thrill and sheer intensity. Laser-like contours drive everything forward, while hair-raising acid makes the spine tingle. This is delirious, eternal and thrilling, no wonder with this kind of analysis: 175 g/L of residual sugar and 14 g/L of acid. (Luscious) -- Anne Krebiehl MW