Arrestingly concentrated aromas of passion fruit and grapefruit are accented with flinty mineral notes and hints of white flowers. It all flows through to the palate where the texture positively vibrates with tension, yet lingers gracefully on the finish. The secret is the location; the domaine has 1.65ha of vines aged 40-100 years old, planted at the top of the Roche de Vergisson at 360-390m elevation. Give this wine five years before opening and drink over the next two decades.

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Sur La Roche 1er Cru has a more immediate nose than the Aux Charmes, soaring with yellow plum, fern and light smoky notes with time. It conveys a sense of classicism. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, tightly wound but there is superb energy locked up in this Premier Cru with a tingle of ginger right on the finish. Excellent. -- Neal Martin