The Togni family’s grand vin from the 2023 vintage is a magical young cabernet sauvignon. As is family tradition here, the wine’s octane is not listed on the label, but I would bet it is below 13.5 percent. The bouquet is quite similar to their 2023 Tanbark Hill, albeit with more depth and purity, as it wafts from the glass in a nascently complex blend of cassis, dark berries, coffee bean, cigar wrapper, a beautiful foundation of Spring Mountain soil, incipient smokiness, a touch of currant leaf and a refined framing of cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, seamlessly balanced and rock solid at the core, with great soil signature, firm, beautifully integrated tannins, great grip and a very, very long, impeccably balanced, refined and utterly stunning young finish. This year the wine’s cépages is eighty-two percent cabernet sauvignon, fifteen percent merlot, two percent cabernet franc and one percent petit verdot. All of the varieties were co-fermented and the wine was raised in forty percent new casks this year. This is a simply perfect young cabernet sauvignon.

One of the top vintages I have had the privilege to taste, Philip Togni's 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate starts quietly, with delicate, pretty notes of bay leaf and violets, then steadily grows into a crescendo of mixed red and black cherries and cassis. This medium- to full-bodied wine is concentrated, rich and dense yet never heavy or overdone; it's tannic but without any harshness, exhibiting awesome length and elegance on the finish.-Joe Czerwinski

The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is outrageously beautiful. Graphite, lavender, crushed rocks, menthol and dark spice emerge with great reluctance. Then again, the 2023 was bottled just a few months before this tasting. It's a vivid, explosive Cabernet that will need at least a few years to be at its most expressive. Poor set lowered yields by about 25%, resulting in an unusually potent wine here. Captivating.- Antonio Galloni

Mixing savory and fruit elements with a youthfully taut feel, this sports bay leaf, thyme, menthol and chestnut leaf notes, plus damson plum and red currant coulis fruit, all supported by a wiry, chiseled frame. A long bolt of iron emerges through the finish alongside a conifer echo. A beautiful example of this decidedly distinct and not-for-everyone style. Best from 2030 through 2050. 965 cases made.