This Mosel riesling kabinett is a miniature masterpiece of delicacy. I love the aromas of wildflowers and herbs that are married to a wealth of mineral nuances on the light- to medium-bodied palate. Although a hint of sweetness is perceptible, this has quite a firm core, yet is very filigreed at the long, pristine finish. Drink or hold. - Stuart Pigott

The 2023 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett is pure, intense and elegant on the complex and substantial nose with stony and lemony notes. This Riesling is rich and mouth-filling and provided with ripe and sustainable mineral acidity and intense fruit. This is an expressive and terroir-driven Riesling with a seriously mineral expression. 9% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in January 2025.

The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett initially presents a reductive funk that takes time to dissipate, allowing only brief glimpses of green apple to peep through. However, the palate is superbly sprightly, vividly light and lemony fresh, skipping along light-heartedly without a care in the world. It airily and charmingly spreads its lemony perfume and charm. A quintessential, elfin Kabinett.

The feathery lightness belies a deeper well of refined power that’s hidden behind this white’s youthful energy. Pink peppercorn, chive and candied violet notes merge with apple details on a fine frame. Round and fluid, with a hint of zesty phenolic bitterness adding weight at the end. Drink now through 2038. - KB