Welcome to the peak of Mosel filigree in a category where most consumers only expect honeyed richness. Pure silk on the medium-bodied palate, where the great concentration slowly creeps up on you, building to a fantastic crescendo with a pink grapefruit freshness that’s unique in this category. You can drink it now, but then you will miss some of the greatness that’s still locked inside this treasure chest. Drink or hold. - Stuart Pigott

This concentrated, powerful version leans decidedly sweet, with a gush of unctuous apple and apricot juice on an expansive, decadent frame. Jasmine, salt, rock and lime elements chime in, bringing complexity and savory undercurrents to the plush palate. The finish is impressively focused and reverberates with smoky mineral details. Drink now through 2046. - KB