This is cool on the nose with a steely, chalky sensation, showing discreet pepperiness, violets and huge depth of blue fruit coming through slowly. It is tight on the nose and takes a long time to open up. The palate is pristine, bright, crystalline, austere and chalky, with fresh, dissipating tannins and succulent sour blueberry flavors. It continues to open up in the third day. The terroir transcends the grape variety. This will age really well. Drink from 2029. Zekun Shuai Senior Editor

This suave, quaffable red gushes with fruit, but there’s more depth than is revealed upon first sip. An opening note of petrichor swirls with spicy, floral and wild blueberry tones that meld into the guava-accented olallieberry core, which is silky, bright and balanced by mineral accents that frame the fine tannins. Drink now through 2042.