A stony nose with citrus elements and an iodine, sealike note. Mineral and textural at first, this dissolves rapidly across the palate, revealing contained ripeness and subtle evolution. Incisive and finely structured, it carries the fruit with balance and composure. Penetrating and precise, a wine of captivating austerity that will evolve in the bottle. From a single 200-year-old vineyard planted on decomposed granite. Aged 12 months in large foudres. No malolactic fermentation. Better in 2026. Jacobo García Andrade Senior Editor

The 2023 Leirana Finca Genoveva deserves the best treatment: a wide Burgundy glass and plenty of time and patience. This is a very serious white that transcends variety and vintage, from a very special place, a centenary vineyard that transmits the strict and serious character of the granite soils like few others. The wine fermented and matured in well-seasoned, neutral 2,500-liter oak foudres with the lees untouched for one year. This is always closed, ungiving and austere at first and when young, but it's also precise, symmetric and full of energy rather than weight. It has very balanced parameters: 12.55% alcohol, a pH of 3.29 and 7.14 grams of acidity. 5,000 bottles were filled in September 2024.- LG

With the help of Bierzo’s star producer Raúl Pérez, Rodrigo Méndez has built an unrivalled portfolio of white and red wines in Rías Baixas. Made with fruit from Genoveva’s 180-year-old vines, this wine is one of the finest and most characterful in the DO, with a tight, deep, flinty profile and a chalky texture. Give it a few years in bottle.

The 2023 Albariño Leirana Genoveva from Salnés fermented in foudre. It delivers a polished expression, with notes of linden, soft honey, nutty undertones, flowers and a delicate balsamic touch. This is creamy in texture, with intensity and a clear, expressive profile. The 2023 is a delicious, complex white. - Joaquín Hidalgo, September 2025