A stunningly elegant and vibrant riesling Kabinett that is packed with white peach and honeysuckle aromas. Succulent on the front of the light-bodied palate, then with a crystalline purity at the finish that takes your breath away. This is not analytically dry, but plenty of enthusiastic wine drinkers will say that is exactly what it is. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

The 2023 Riesling Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett is from a south-east-facing site of shale, getting the morning sun; this is never affected by botrytis and is shaded in the afternoon, so a late harvest is possible because botrytis never occurs, and acids are preserved. The nose combines lemon zest, stone and herbal tisane. The palate adds just a little sweetness, giving the charm to the citric verve, but all remains light, tender, bright and so deceptively easy. What a tease, what elegance, what lemon resonance! (Medium) - By Anne Krebiehl MW, on July 2024