Radically smoky and massively structured in spite of being only medium-bodied, this astonishingly dry riesling expresses the personality of this volcanic site with great authority and precision. So much spice, structure and hardness in the positive sense, meaning that this is not a wine for the faint of heart. Massive power in the imposing finish, yet absolutely clean and bright. Drink or hold.

(96-98 points) The 2023 Riesling Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Felsenturmchen Grosses Gewachs is picked in the fully south-facing site of porphyry and melaphyr. Cornelius Donnhoff says this is the most challenging site to work, simply because the stones are so hard and unforgiving, retaining almost no water. Thus, a year like 2023 was brilliant for this site. It is always the first GG site to be harvested because the rock retains heat from the day. Tender reduction still casts a flinty spell on the nose. Lovely savor implies crushed citrus foliage merged into iron oxide on the nose. The palate is taut, citric, bright with immense linearity, moving with absolute ease and direction, with energy and punch, towards a zesty, cool finish, long, sustained, all with savor and saltiness. The 2023 is a total joy of clarity, direction and stony poise. This is so elegant, so slender, so powerful, and no, this is not a contradiction. (Bone-dry) - By Anne Krebiehl MW on July 2024

A simmering, smoky core of mineral energy grounds this compact, bone-dry version. A bit of time in glass reveals lime oil, citrus and zesty peach skin, with a good sense of underlying power. Offers impressive textural appeal and energy. Best from 2026 through 2040. - KB