(92-94 points) Vinified in a combination of used oak (30%) and stainless steel, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Forêts is one of the highlights from Moreau-Naudet’s portfolio this year, beautifully exemplifying the classical Chablisien character. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of beeswax, orange zest and pear, mingling with oyster shell, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and tense, with vibrant acidity and excellent cut. It concludes with a pure, chalky finish. Virginie Moreau admits that in recent years she has given a slight preference to Forêts over the expressiveness of Vaillons. Readers will be able to make their own conclusions, as both wines come warmly recommended. - Kristaps Karklins