Michel Bouzereau's 2023 Charmes is a classic Meursault, done with modern flair, featuring aromas of ripe apple and quince with hints of acacia flowers, vanilla and toast. The texture is elegantly lush, but not overly rich. The grapes are from a half-hectare in Charmes Dessus. They are gently pressed and fermented in cask (25% new) before ageing over two winters. This wine will be best after at least five years in the cellar, but it will continue to improve for at least another decade.

(92-94 points) Mid lemon yellow. Very little nose. This has the broad body of a Charmes, especially notable for its white fruit, well balanced across the palate, ripe apples, just a little barrel toast, and fine length. More nuances than expected towards the back of the palate. One third of the vines are 60 years old, another third has millerand grapes.

(91-93 points) A smoky nose is comprised by notes of pear essence, citrus confit and broad-ranging floral elements. I very much like the sophisticated texture of the mineral-driven, if not especially dense, flavors that terminate in an impressively persistent, moderately austere and beautifully chiseled finale.

(91-93 points) The 2023 Meursault Les Charmes-Dessus 1er Cru unfurls on the nose with lemon curd, dried flowers and subtle earthy scents, all quite discrete. The palate is taut on the entry, fresh and saline with a silver bead of acidity. Hints of stem ginger and marmalade lend some edginess toward the finish. This may not be a long-term Meursault compared to the Genevrières, but there is class here. - By Neal Martin, November 2024