Very cool, silky and precise in spite of the awesome old-vine depth. In fact, it has a personality that’s gentle and polite. The fine-grained texture on the medium-bodied palate makes you feel like you’re licking the granite soil of the site. I love the delicate spicy aromas and touch of red roses. There’s a dramatic mineral freshness in the emphatically dry finish. Fermented with a good proportion of whole-cluster then matured two-thirds in concrete tank and one-third in used Burgundian barrels. Drink or hold.

The 2023 Moulin-à-Vent Très Vieille Vigne Les Caves has an open, delineated bouquet with cassis, blackcurrant and a subtle marine scent emerging with time. The palate is harmonious, silky smooth and a little edgier than the Coeur de Vigneronne cuvée. This has a nicely structured, persistent finish. The 2023 is excellent and perhaps has the edge over the 2022. - Neal Martin