How can you resist this truly extraordinary wine that redefines Beaujolais? Extremely concentrated yet also incredibly elegant, it has an almost supernatural vibrancy that blasts its way out of the conventions of the appellation. The delicate salinity adds an extra dimension of tension in the finish, making this dangerously exciting. Yes, there’s a cornucopia of black fruit, but none of this extravagance is too much. From a five-hectare block of vines in the Aux Caves lieu-dit. Drink or hold.

Suave and generous, the 2023 Moulin-à-Vent Reine de Nuit, vinified with whole clusters, offers complex notes of licorice, candied black cherry, chocolate, coffee and eucalyptus. Full-bodied, the wine's layered silky fruit is encapsulated by a structuring of very tight-knit but smooth tannins that gradually cinch the wine, prompting a crisp, salty finish that leaves you reaching for the glass for more. - KW

The 2023 Moulin-à-Vent Reine de Nuit comes from granitic soils exposed to the southwest from 40-year-old vines, the fruit picked early in the morning. It underwent a semi-carbonic maceration and matured in concrete vats. The nose is quite backward at the moment, a touch of wet granite infusing the dark plummy fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite grippy in style, a solid Moulin-à-Vent that just needs time to shave its edges. - Neal Martin|