At once very well-structured and velvety, this stunning Morgon also drinks extremely well right now. The abundant fine tannins build to a real crescendo in the imposing but beautifully balanced finish. There’s a touch of black cherries dipped in bitter chocolate, but that doesn’t come from oak. From old vines, fermented with a good proportion of whole-cluster. Drink or hold.

92+ The 2023 Morgon Cuvée Château-Gaillard, crafted from partially destemmed fruit, presents a full-bodied profile with notes of black cherry, prune, licorice and pine. The wine’s power is evident, with layered, concentrated dark fruit and expansive volume shaped by long, enveloping tannins. The finish is striking with mentholated tones and crisp flinty accents. With its significant aging potential, I would recommend leaving this wine to age for two or three years at the very least. - Kenna Wells