It wasn't an easy season for Hawke's Bay growers, but the 2022 Coleraine seems to have negotiated the trials and tribulations of this hot season with untimely rains. For classicists, this cuvée remains the closest you'll...
It wasn't an easy season for Hawke's Bay growers, but the 2022 Coleraine seems to have negotiated the trials and tribulations of this hot season with untimely rains. For classicists, this cuvée remains the closest you'll get to Bordeaux. It is richly aromatic, exuding pure blackcurrant and Cabernet's varietal tobacco and leafy notes, but there's never an overt sweetness, resisting any new world caricature. There's abundant tannin here, providing structure and assuring its longevity, but they're tender in nature, and that's probably a reflection of the team pulling back on their extraction regime since 2020. It's dark; it's intense; it's pure blackcurrant Cabernet; it's blackcurrant leaf, and it has just the right amount of dark chocolate bitterness. The oak is a supporting act that provides cedar and Christmas spices but never gets in the way, even at this early stage. In all, this is surprisingly well-balanced. Based on vintage reports, I didn't have high hopes after the superlative 2021 vintage, but the high proportion of the late-ripening, thick-skinned Cabernet at the dry end of the season has ensured it maintains its high standards.
- By Rebecca Gibb MW, May 2024