What a totally fascinating and exhilaratingly mineral dry riesling this is. An expansive spectrum of citrus and stone fruit aromas and flavors wash over you in a great wave on the very concentrated and focused palate. Sensational crushed-rock finish that doesn’t want to let go. From five small plots of more than 50-year-old vines in this great but underrated site. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2022 Riesling Wineck-Schlossberg Grand Cru is on granite, rather steep, facing south-south-east in a narrower, more shaded valley. This is the first year this wine was made. An employee supplies the grapes. The vineyard is still in conversion. More than half of the grapes were lost to a hailstorm in August, so only 21 hl/ha was harvested. Smoke and a tropical overtone of mango flickers on the nose, touching on pineapple. The palate is superbly juicy and has that unimpeded, clear-cut brightness of granite and stony, unmitigated, salty, mouth-watering acidity. It finishes with slightly pithy zestiness. (Bone-Dry)

A gorgeous white, showing appealing gentleness and density, with beeswax notes and honeyed edges to its core of preserved lemon rind, nectarine and dried flowers. Some phenolic structure gives this real framework and presence, with blanched almond, garlic scape and crushed slate in the backdrop. Concentrated, fluid and harmonious. Drink now through 2035. - KB