A wine of intense concentration, tension and focus, even in the warm conditions of 2022. Aroma notes of ripe apple, peach and quince, then the volume and density you'd expect from 2022, but it's well balanced by the fresh acidity that draws it to a lingering finish. Grapes from Niellon’s plot of old vines are fermented on native yeasts in 40% new cask. This wine is among the best from this vintage and will make old bones if you are so inclined.

The vines were planted in 1962 and 1968. Pale to mid lemon in colour. A light reduction on the nose. The limestone is close to the surface on the nose, a little biscuit note, this is discreet but evidently with a fine tensile strength. Just leave this the time to blossom and it will become a really fine example.

The 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from vines planted in 1961 or 1962 and comprises of five barrels this year (two new). It has a crisp, intense bouquet. Crushed limestone, red apples and a touch of beeswax appear on the nose. Later, almond and white peach aromas lend more complexity. The palate is nicely balanced with real weight and density on the entry, though the acidity is finely tuned and maintains tension and poise. There is impressive salinity on the finish as it fans out gloriously; this wonderful Chevalier should mature extremely well in bottle. - By Neal Martin on June 2024

Aromatic and expressive, this white delivers peach, apricot, vanilla and buttered pastry aromas and flavors. Tightens up midpalate, where lively acidity takes over and ushers in a chalky feel and oyster shell aftertaste. Best from 2027 through 2037. - BS

This is the first wine to display any appreciable wood influence and even here it's quite subtle and easily allows the equally smoky nose of mineral reduction, acacia blossom and beautiful array of spice elements to be appreciated. The wonderfully refined, if not especially dense, middle weight plus flavors exude an evident stoniness on the strikingly long and impeccably well-balanced finale. This does need to develop better depth but the track record of the Niellon Chevalier is beyond reproach.