A perfumed bouquet of Anjou pear, white peach, white fruits and spring blossoms introduces the 2022 Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec, a medium- to full-bodied, dense and concentrated wine with a fleshy core of fruit framed by a delicate gastronomic bitterness, a phenolic texture and a sumptuous, refined saline finish. Crystalline and chiseled, this is a superb Vouvray, resonant with depth and telluric energy. - Yohan Castaing

Bruised apple and persimmon give this a beautiful earthy dimension, while racy, pithy acidity powers the energy. The rich fruit and ripeness is well-matched by the notes of fleur de sel and crushed stone. Shows impressive depth, acid verve and coiled energy, which carries the off-dry profile. Drink now through 2035. — K.B.

The 2022 Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec is juicy, though never generous, but still a comforting Vouvray that remains focused; there's sufficient tension from the acidity despite the season's warmth. Welcoming and friendly from the off, there's fine fruit here with a pretty talc note. It has a sense of persistence and presence that elevates this wine from purely a fruity Chenin. Really charming. -- Rebecca Gibb MW