94+ The 2022 Vouvray “le Haut Lieu” Moelleux from Domaine Huët is another gorgeous wine in the making, sharing the same sense of eternal elegance that is found in the Demi-Sec version. The bouquet is deep, vibrant and complex, soaring from the glass in a mix of sweet quince, fresh pineapple, honeycomb, incipient notes of yellow plum, lovely soil tones, bee pollen and musky floral tones. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and complex, with gorgeous depth of fruit, fine soil undertow and grip, a lovely spine of acidity and exquisite balance on the long, complex and very refined finish. Like the Sec and Demi-Sec bottlings, this wine will present a few years where it is open and very enjoyable to drink, followed by a plunge into deep hibernation where it will demand a decade of sleep time. After which, it will be virtually timeless in its drinking beauty.

The 2022 Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux is a supple, tender style. It's delicate on the palate while succulent and medium-sweet, which is quite a feat. You'll struggle to find many producers in the world who can achieve this balance. It has a fine, delicate fragrance of apple, pear and even a hint of celery. The finish is gentle, with a fine texture lightly coating the palate. A little shorter than I'd like ideally, but still super stuff. (47g/L RS) -- Rebecca Gibb MW