Orma, Sette Ponti's sister estate based in Bolgheri, is – like Sette Ponti's Oreno – Merlot-based, but it's a different blend in a different place and, in my opinion, reaches greater heights. Spicy, brambly berry aromas with some dusty wood and chocolate notes are followed in the mouth by super-fresh acidity, introducing some ripe black fruits then a stony mid-palate. A fine web of silky tannins supports the fruit, while herbal and balsamic edges bring a sense of freshness and levity to the concentrated fruit. The finish is long, succulent and fresh, with some fresh and dried black fruits accompanied by spice and chocolate. Great balance.

Aromas of herbs such as basil and bay leaf with currants follow through to a full body with creamy and round tannins, and lots of coffee bean and walnut undertones. Chewy but not overdone. Velvety texture. Fine at the end. Drinkable but better in three to five years.

The 2021 Orma is a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Cabernet Franc. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it bursts from the glass with bold notes of stewed black plums, boysenberry preserves, and underbrush, followed by hints of cedar chest, tar, and bay leaves. The big, concentrated, full-bodied palate packs a wallop, with bags of expressive black fruits and a grainy texture, finishing with an invigorating mineral lift.

The organic 2021 Orma pours from a chunky glass bottle. The blend is 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc (with 18 months in barrique). This wine is heady and opulent with a bouquet that delivers swells of black fruit, plum, spice and floral highlights of lilac or blue flower. These aromas are delivered in waves of varying intensity. This is a proverbial food wine that calls for a dish with a high fat content. The freshness is there, and there is considerable fruit weight to pair across from grilled lamb with mint sauce. - Monica Larner