Cocoa powder and red berries on the nose, some softly ferrous notes with tobacco and rose florality. Thick and glossy but lively with lots of life and energy. This is broad and powerful, complex and muscular with flesh and chew. Tannins are grippy but they're joined by mouthwatering acidity that lifts the expression. Sun-kissed black fruit and spiced on the finish. It still feels a little compact at this stage, but is full of concentration and finesse with graphite, slate and a bloody tang on the finish. Grapes come from the best two crus of the estate. 2021 saw the latest harvest ever at the estate finishing on October 20th. Winemaker Alessandro Cellai. All I Sodi wines feature endangered bird species on the label, this one is the orange-headed bunting. (Drink between 2027-2044)

A wonderfully balanced vintage in Tuscany, and this wine, which is always one to follow, just slow burns into brilliance. What I mean by that is that there is a delicacy immediately evident, savoury broth and crushed rose petals on the opening, gentle woodsmoke and fragrant raspberry leaf and redcurrant fruits. Its tannins give a gentle caress. Alessandro Cellai winemaker, 66% new oak, 10 months in bottle after barrel ageing.

Dark flavors of cherry, plum and blackberry are fresh, focused and framed by a light touch of toasty oak. Iron, earth, eucalyptus and tobacco notes add depth as this red plays out on the long aftertaste. Intense and resonant, with superb balance and excellent potential. Sangioveto and Malvasia Nera. Best from 2028 through 2045. 5,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.

95+ The 2021 I Sodi di San Niccolò is a powerhouse. Many recent vintages have been showier, but not the 2021. It's a wine that is going to require many years to shed its baby fat. Dark fruit, lavender, rose petal, menthol and grilled herbs begin to emerge with air, but only with great reluctance. The 2021 is a wine for readers who can be patient. - Antonio Galloni