This stands out from the moment you bring the glass up to your nose thanks to the profound earthiness that comes from the Grand Cru Hengst site. With aeration aromas of orange zest and bitter chocolate develop. Imposing stature thanks to the monumental tannin structure and full body, but it is also juicy and sensual. Huge rooty, moderately dry finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2025. - Stuart Pigott

The 2021 Pinot Noir Grand H is the last vintage to be labeled thus; the 2022 vintage will be labeled Hengst Grand Cru. Barthelmé explains that there was hardly any mildew in the Hengst Pinot Noir, which is not something he can readily explain beyond citing mature vines and 25 years of biodynamics. The nose is tender, with a touch of hazelnut macaron playing around tender red fruit. Later on, a spicy edge of iron appears. The palate comes in with pepper and more red fruit that evokes juicy, fine redcurrant, but with tannins that are ripe, smooth and gentle. While the texture speaks of ripeness, the aromas speak of the cooler year where all is pulled into focus by bright freshness. This has lovely depth, like red, tart juice sinking deep into the soil. An appealing smattering of white pepper appears on the long finish. (Bone-dry) -- Anne Krebiehl MW