Here is a masterful sweet wine endowed with 49g/L of residual sugar that offers an almost unprecedented delicacy for the estate that contrasts with its powerful aromatics resonating with pineapple, passionfruit and apricot, along with a seductive floral component. On the palate, the rich liqueur character retains impressive balance and restrained power, combining unctuousness and chalky acidity. Best to cellar for 10 to 40 years. (Drink between 2028-2050)

The 2020 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux offers a deep, complex and concentrated bouquet of highly ripe and candied fruits yet with this coolish shimmering lime zest probably coming from the pebbly silex and deep green clay soil of this nine-hectare "grand cru." Full-bodied, rich and round on the palate, this is a dense, viscous, mouth-filling, lush and mellow yet also tight and piquant Le Mont whose complexity is lifted by dramatic drive and tension and carried to a long and salivating finish by lingering salinity. You can never go wrong in buying a Le Mont and in particular this one. This is a great effort from a very particular vintage that forced the harvest team to make the strictest selections. It was well worth the effort. - SR

There are many shouty wines in the world, but the 2020 Le Mont Moelleux is understated, which is highly attractive. There's finesse and elegance to this sweeter style (49g/L). Delicate exotic characters such as dried papaya and pineapple sit alongside floral notes. While there's excellent concentration, this remains delicate. The finish is appetizing thanks to fine acidity and phenolic structure, which hold the mouth reassuringly on the finish. An excellent wine that offers real drinkability in youth thanks to its appealing primary fruit, but there's no hurry at all to drink. A smidgen more length would take it into even higher realms (although, let's be fair, it's not far off as good as it gets). -- Rebecca Gibb MW

A harmonious white, with vivid complexity, offering glazed yellow fig, persimmon and Bosc pear notes intertwined with ginger, chamomile, marzipan and heather details. Notes of spice and honeysuckle waft on the long finish. Drink now through 2036. — G.S.

The 2020 Le Mont Moelleux is a slightly bigger and sweeter wine than the Le Haut Lieu version, with more of a primary personality out of the blocks, but stunning depth and length. The bouquet is quite youthful, but eventually can be coaxed into offering up scents of sweet quince, apple, a lovely base of chalky soil, honeycomb, incipient notes of barley sugar, orange zest and a floral topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and almost plush on the attack, with bottomless depth at the core, great acids and mineral drive, impeccable balance and a long, focused and still very youthful finish. Whereas the 2020 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux is going to drink stunningly well for a couple of years, before it closes down, the Le Mont Moelleux is such a puppy out of the blocks that it is going to be best to just tuck it away for a decade in the cellar and then see if the fireworks have started yet!