This represents the third vintage in which this wine carries a Gran Selezione designation. Fruit comes from an experimental vineyard at 350 meters in elevation with compact clay soils (with a few stones to break it up), good ventilation and a dominant south-facing position. The property measures 12.5 hectares and was acquired in 1997. Following the graceful 2018 vintage, the Mazzei 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Fonterutoli Vicoregio 36 shows medium-rich concentration and sweet tannins with plenty of dark fruit, spice, underbrush and wild mint. The 2019 growing season was warm and without rain for most of the summer. -ML

This classy red boasts a core of ripe, juicy plum, cherry and blackberry fruit framed by a subtle touch of new oak and a mineral underpinning. Reveals refined tannins, which should come into the fold over the next 5-7 years as this integrates fully. Shows terrific balance and length, with finesse and complexity. Best from 2026 through 2045. — B.S.

Mazzei’s expression of the Vagliagli township comes from a vineyard planted with 36 different biotypes of Sangiovese, the result of 50 years of research. At 350 metres, it is the lowest of the estate’s three Gran Selezione sites, as well as the most expansive and smoothest in style. Leading with mocha, dried cherry and balsam wood, it carries its oak well. Red berry purity shows through on the toasty palate. This is full yet graciously structured, with appetising integrated acidity.