The 2019 Les Varennes du Grand Clos is starting to mellow with an extra year in bottle since I last tasted. It continues to have its soft, welcoming opening, with attractive, pure aromatics: plenty of sweet black fruit and violet alongside a lightly spiced character derived from a small amount of oak. It remains lifted, bright and fresh, with a little pinch of tannins on finish. It continues to exude primary fruit and youthful sass and would benefit from extra time in bottle. -- Rebecca Gibb MW