The inklings of the opulence of a fine Volnay are just beginning to show in this perfumed wine. Richness and spice add to the black fruits and youthful acidity in a complex wine that promises plenty of aging. Drink from 2025. — Roger Voss

Discreet but perceptible wood sets off the overtly spicy aromas of dark cherry and raspberry that are trimmed in equally discreet nuances of violet and lavender. There is fine mid-palate concentration to the medium-bodied flavors that possess solid power and focus on the sneaky long, balanced and firm finish. This could use better depth, but more should almost certainly develop if this is allowed to age properly.